Hope you have a great day and weekend! I called the furnace company and they came for 15 mins and said theres nothing they could do its a propane issue, not enough gas pressure, I called propane company and they came out and said since the regulator was 30 yrs old they will replace it but thats not the issue, they installed the new one and it still shows 12 pounds, furnace goes thru its ignition plate gets hot and you can hear the regulator click and open and if you blow in there it will sometimes light but when its burning there is some yellow flames not a true blue flame, when it shuts off it wont come back on without some help. The switch inside the furnace could have accidentally been switched to off, so be sure the power is turned on. If you want me to look up parts please send me you furnace’s product number to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com and I can look up the control board or any other parts you would like for me to find part numbers for. I have no idea why they would not sell ignitors other than because they are fragile and can be broken easy and if a customer does not know how to handle an ignitor properly without touching the carbide tip then this could cause lots of warranty problems for Lowes and Home Depot. Steve. The question is why did your furnace breaker go out. Please send me your furnace model number if you would like for me to look it up and see which ignitor or parts your furnace uses. I have gas everywhere else in the house with no problem. It could be caused by a bad ignitor. Just do not leave the exhaust vent pipe off. Hi Tracy! 3. On the bottom is a picture of a hot surface ignitor. Then check between R and C (com) thermostat wires. If your ignitor will not light up then this could be caused by many different problems. My question is why is my York 80 eating these limit switches. What to Do When a Furnace Blower Fan Won't Start Written by Doityourself Staff. Hello I have a Tempstar/Keeprite furnace model HGF120NE-1, Serial number 8464124770. If the power going to the ignitor is a constant 120 volts when it is supposed to be glowing and the ignitor is going off and on then this is an ignitor problem. I have a Lennox Elite series furnace that won't ignite. Just curious what you think. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. I took the cover off the new electrical panel and found out that probably half the wires that went into the breakers were loose. Steve. Normal ignitors ohm out between 40 to 90 ohms. What steps should I take to properly diagnose the no power issue? Examine the pipes that allow for air intake to make sure they are free of all debris and other types of blockages. Thanks. The pilot light or ignition sensor is usually the most common issue when your furnace will not ignite. I went down to smell for gas and didn’t smell any. I hope you find and fix the problem soon! Thank you, Hi Mauro! Hi John! You should have 24 to 28 volts AC between R and C. If you do not then you have a low voltage problem which could very well be a low voltage transformer that is burnt out. It will no longer heat up the ignitor. Steve. If your ignitor tests OK with an ohm meter, then you could have a furnace control board problem or you could have an open limit or rollout switch problem. Everything appears to be in working condition except for the fact that the igniter will not glow yet the unit still goes into normal operation as if a flame is present.This is a Amana 80 SSE IIQ Air Command Gas Furnace. New ignitor, cleaned the flame sensor- should be good until next time! I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. I would ask the questions: Is your furnace gas shutting off and is your furnace going off on high limit? But now an electric ignition system have started to replace pilot lights. This means the furnace has failed to ignite. But, again, I don’t know the correct voltage, so perhaps someone could assist me to know the proper voltage. Please make sure all connections on the control board are tight. More than likely the ignitor relay on your control board is bad. We are looking forward to doing business with you in the future! You should be getting 24 to 28 volts AC between at least one wire that goes into your limit switch to a good ground on the furnace body. God bless you all! We sell furnace hot surface ignitors on the following page: If you do not visually see a crack in the ignitor, then I would suggest that you unplug the ignitor and take an ohm meter reading to see if the ignitor is burnt out. When i look in the glass to see what the indicator lights are doing I see rapid alternating flashes. However, not all furnace problems are easy DIY repairs, but it is worth a shot before you pick up the phone to call a certified HVAC technician. Although this may seem obvious, be sure your thermostat is set to heat and that it's actually colder in your house than the temperature the thermostat is set to. However, if it continues to trip, call an HVAC technician because something is wrong. Also it appears the vent motor is spinning. Where you stop getting the 24 volts is where the problem is located. Steve, Hi I’m having a problem where the igniter glows but on some occassions doesn’t create the flame.. the glow vanishes and the furnace will blow normal air until it is reset. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. I had similar issues to the previous commenters. Any insight you can provide is greatly appreciated. I did notice a steady red light on the control board. If so how many mA should it draw? Make sure all your rollouts and limit are closed and allowing current to flow through them. I’ll also check the light to get the error code. The main blower then comes on but at no point do I get any voltage to the ignitor. I checked the resistance and got a 10.2-ohm reading or 100 ohms I don’t remember as I was working on a customer’s unit. Thanks! Sure enough this time the igniter lit up and lit the furnace on its own. The furnace stopped after 2 weeks. I hope you can find the definite problem so you do not have to worry about wasting money on parts that are not the problem. This sounds more like a control board problem with the ignitor relay on the control board at fault. You can use an ohm meter to check the ignitor to make sure it is good. The limit should really never be used unless your furnace has a part failure like the blower motor stops, a dirty filter, or if the underside of the AC evaporator coil is stopped up and not allowing air to be expelled through the furnace. I have cycled the unit several times, heard the click as if the gas valve opened and still no ignition. Seeing that I power cycled it again to see if it would reset and work on its own. :-0, Fantastic! About half way down the following page we discuss why ignitors go out prematurely: https://arnoldservice.com/gas-electric-furnace-troubleshooting-simplified-2/ If it turns out that you need a control board then our Luxaire program shows that your furnace uses the S1-33103010000 control board that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/s1-33103010000-york-furnace-control-board/ I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. If you would like for me to look up parts…please send your furnace’s model number and serial number to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address and I will be glad to look up the parts. If the burners fail to ignite, the furnace shuts off the gas supply, goes through a purge cycle and attempts to light the burners again. I tested the pressure switch today and it is good. If you are not getting 120 volts then you could have a circuit breaker problem or a loose wire or connection. CODE: LED flashes like a heartbeat. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. No blinking. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. We had furnace ignitor problem last night with our Bryant 90I furnace. If you want me to look up parts please send me the model number of your furnace to our email address: arnoldservice@gmail.com. If any of these are open the the ignitor will not glow. It stopped working all together the other day, went to check it out and noticed that it was in Ignition lock out mode. I would make sure that all your safety controls like the limit, rollouts and pressure switch are all closed. It would be best to send this information to our arnoldservice@gmail.com email address. I hope this helps you out! Minus 31 how awful! This is probably the most helpful site I have found for diagnosing furnace problems. So sorry to hear that you are having a problem with your furnace! Steve, Hi Steve. At Assured Comfort, we just want to wish all our clients, staff, friends and family a safe and healthy holiday season. One of the Trane ignitors that we sell the Trane IGN00145 silicone nitride ignitor ohms out at 16 ohms. My guess is that this is what happened to it in the first place, likely burning itself out. This is typically located near the burners. Steve, I have replaced my igniter on my weeks diamond 80 furnace 3 times over the last 2 week, the furnace is 19 years old, We discuss this problem and causes on the following page under, “Below are listed some reasons that might cause your ignitor to go out prematurely”. Steve. Steve, I replaced my ignitor and it did not glow so I replaced my board as well and still nothing. You should get 24 to 28 volts AC between each of the two terminals on the rollout or limit to ground. If you do it can shorten the hot surface ignitor’s life. I really do not understand why your furnace is going through so many limits. It performs the startup cycle, the fan blows but I do not hear the gas coming on nor does my ignitor light up. The furnace gas valve for this type of furnace is identifiable with its solenoid designations: MV (main valve), PV (pilot valve), and PV/MV (common). If your thermostat has batteries make sure they are good. I would think that 10.2-ohm reading would mean that the ignitor is OK. We have a post about the problem on the IGN00145 ignitors going out so often on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/trane-ign00145-ignitor-going-often-problem/ I hope this helps you out. I would think that you have an airflow problem that is not allowing enough air through the heat exchanger to keep your furnace running at the right temperature rise. Please help me. Your furnace uses the B1809913S that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/goodman-furnace-control-board-b1809913s/ I would check to make sure and check to make sure all safety controls like the pressure switch, rollouts and limit as closed. Required fields are marked *. This means the furnace has failed to ignite. Basic Troubleshooting. Hi Victor! If they’re okay, I should have a new board by Thursday morning. Yes, if the limit or any of your rollout switches are open then the open switches will not allow the ignitor to glow. Three so far. Turn up the temperature on your thermostat to see if your furnace will now fire up. This leads me to believe there is a problem with air flow. We sell furnace parts, air conditioning parts, AprilAire filters, EZ Flex filters, and many other HVAC parts and supplies at affordable prices. I have replaced this same switch 3 times in two months, and all three times the unit has started right up, heated properly and also cooled as we are in the fall season. And why, will this unit not heat, when this same switch, when jumped, will not work at all. Call now or click on the button below to schedule a service today. Check all wires to make sure they are good and tight. I looked up the parts for your furnace in our Lennox parts program and it shows that your furnace uses a DSI (direct spark ignition) and not a hot surface ignitor. If your furnace won't ignite, there could be a few issues at hand. Steve. can hear your furnace click on but it does not fire up. The furnace will come on (humming noise) but the pilot light won't ignite (no heat). Thanks again. I hope you have a great day! 919-480-2727 Service Since 1986. Can’t figure out if it’s the igniter/sensor assembly or gas valve. The model is Lennox 80MGF3-75A-12 and according to the manual it has a SiNi ignitor. This could also be a control board problem and after you make sure all the safety controls are closed you would need to test with a volt meter to see if the ignitor is getting 110 volts when it is supposed to be glowing. Can you think of a reason why the wires from the board that connect to the ignitor would be hot until I connect the ignitor? Hi Jake! “G5UH” does not show any Lennox furnace models in our Lennox parts program. I have a Lennox G5UH. Steve. Best of luck in finding the problem. Below are pictures to help you identify the difference in a flame sensor and a hot surface ignitor. This sounds like you have a high voltage issue. I assume that your draft inducer is running but the ignitor will not glow. I checked the voltage to the plug connection and it reads 116 volts once the inducer fan and pressure switches are activated. I tightened all the breaker screws and we have not had any problems. Above 90 ohms the ignitor is considered bad. 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